If you’re serious about Korean barbecue, you likely have a favorite restaurant for specific cuts of meat. Soowon Galbi is the place for 48-hour-marinated short ribs. If you’re looking for the sweet soy char of bulgolgi, head to Gwang Yang BBQ. At Origin Korean BBQ, the cuts sizzling on every grill are the garlic-seasoned prime short rib and shaved pork belly. The short rib is moderately marbled and tender, fragrant with garlic and the smoke from the grill. The pork curls up as soon as it hits the heat, the thinness ensuring that each piece has just the right amount of fat with crispy edges. Each of the barbecue sets comes with a vat of brisket soybean paste stew crowded with bricks of tofu and ramen noodles. It’s reason enough to visit. Origin is part of the On6thAvenue group, which also runs Quarters BBQ across the Chapman Plaza. Perhaps it’s the newness of Origin that fills the dining room with a certain energy, attracting parties of mostly 20-somethings unbothered by the plumes of smoke from the tabletop grills and the decibel level. With soju and Terra beer flowing, there’s a celebration at every table. — J.H.

3465 W. 6TH ST., #20, LOS ANGELES, (213) 451-6067 l ORIGINKBBQ.COM