Majordomo is a no-skip-record of a restaurant. You could blindly point to a spot on the menu and know that whatever arrives will be something you’ll still be thinking about on the drive home. It’s the type of L.A. restaurant that has felt relevant since it opened in 2018, on a hip, industrial stretch in northern Chinatown. The clientele look like they sauntered off the pages of a Copenhagen street fashion blog into its warehouse location. Chef David Chang has figured out the Midas touch for a dining room that’s constantly buzzing. I imagine his celebrity helps, with multiple podcasts and series involving Chang and famous friends. It’s more likely his brazen approach to cooking that launched his Momofuku restaurant group with locations around the country. His smoked bo ssam is a boulder of smoked pork belly you tear at with tongs and stuff into perilla leaves painted with scallion oil, kimchi and ssamjang. The mushroom crispy rice features a crunchy bottom that rivals the best tahdig in town. Dessert is a fiery spectacle, prepared tableside with fried doughnuts, rum flambé and vanilla ice cream. — J.H.

1725 NAUD ST., LOS ANGELES, (323) 545-4880 l MAJORDOMO.LA