Pre-2020, daytime dining was a cornerstone of Sarah Hymanson and Sara Kramer’s nearly 8-year-old Los Feliz restaurant. This fall, the pair returned to the light with Saturday and Sunday brunch and their signature platter of small dishes to start the day. As with everything Kismet, the lineup revolves with the findings of its market coordinator, Anna Polacek; a recent spread included a few soft dates; kale tahini paired with pomegranate molasses, ideal for dipping Bub & Grandma’s barbari bread; herbed cucumbers over labneh; two halves of an egg with the requisite jammy yolk; feta and walnuts drizzled with honey; and cherry tomatoes with creamy beans, which I alternated in bites with plump green olives. If there is breakfast in the sweet hereafter, I hope it looks and tastes like this. If you’re sharing a meal, maybe throw in an order of homey challah French toast doused in blueberry-studded maple syrup. Dinner maintains Hymanson and Kramer’s elegant aesthetic for matching herbs and seasonings from the Levantine canon with California produce — and a couple of higher-foodchain staples like lemony chicken and pine nut hand pies. The pair released their cookbook this year, as colorful and as uplifting as their cooking. I’m grateful to know I can replicate the Persian-style crispy rice and their “stewy cranberry beans + greens” at home, but mostly I’ll keep relying on the experts at the restaurant. — B.A.

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