An oval huarache piled with fried artichokes and spread with potato puree. Glossy costillas enmoladas served with pickles and wraps inspired by Korean bo ssam. Salmon tostadas spread with Sungold tomato sauce and smoky, glassy chicatana ants (a luxury ingredient in Oaxaca and other regions of Mexico). Damian remains the rare L.A. bridge linking Mexico City’s alta cocina momentum with Southern California’s culture and bounty. I was sad to see the restaurant discontinue brunch this year; it was one of L.A.’s great weekend meals that admittedly never quite found a steady audience. Its disappearance reminds me to return more often for dinner — for the incredible cooking led by Jesús “Chuy” Cervantes, the unflagging hospitality and the gorgeous, mod setting in a former Arts District warehouse. For a daytime meal Thursday through Sunday, there’s always Ditroit, the taqueria around back also run by Enrique Olvera’s restaurant group, Casamata. Seize on its peerless fish flauta dressed in crema, punchy salsa verde and cabbage slaw with a sprinkling of cotija. —B.A.

2132 E. 7TH PLACE, LOS ANGELES, (213) 270-0178 l DAMIANDTLA.COM